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“So many things were different, yet the experiences had much in common”: Peace Corps from father to daughter

The following post is inspired by this, from the Peace Corps Passport blog, about a woman whose father, like mine, was a Peace Corps Volunteer before her. Below, with the guidance of some questions asked in the model post, I reflect on how my dad’s stories and experiences as a PCV inspired me to apply and serve. This has been a work in progress for a while, but I thought now was a good time to publish it because in addition to my dad, I now have one more close Peace Corps connection: my good friend Hannah leaves this weekend for her own Peace Corps adventures in Georgia.

my dad and I, overlooking the Prut River valley in my PC post of Sniatyn, Ukraine (May 2012)

father & daughter, overlooking the Prut River valley in my PC post of Sniatyn, Ukraine (May 2012)

How did your dad’s Peace Corps service inspire you to serve?

I grew up hearing my dad, Terry, tell stories about teaching math and physics at an all-boys high school in rural Mpwapwa, Tanzania, where he was a Peace Corps Volunteer (PCV) from 1964-1966, in the first five years of Peace Corps’ existence. (Terry writes that Mpwapwa “was a small town, with a small hospital and local population of little more than 1000, which swelled to nearly 5000 when all the 6-7 schools were in session, including the expatriate population of 200 or so, mostly teachers and their families, plus some employees at the Teacher Training College and the Agricultural Station, both a few miles out of town.”)

I might not have joined the Peace Corps if it weren’t for growing up hearing Terry’s stories. He told us about all the cool trips he went on during vacations — I especially liked hearing about his time as an Outward Bound counselor and climbing Kilimanjaro (I can’t remember if those happened together or separately). There was also a story about a Jeep getting stuck in the mud and about his star pupil who would read novels at the back of the classroom and whom Terry always tried to challenge intellectually.

I wanted to have adventures like my dad.

Did your dad encourage you to apply, or was he surprised?

Terry didn’t specifically encourage me to apply. During my senior year of college, I was tossing around gap-year options and he might’ve suggested Peace Corps. Or I came up with it on my own; I can’t remember. I struggled at first with the length of commitment — 27 months — PC service would require. Terry didn’t push me either way. Eventually, I realized that 27 months is hardly anything in the grand scheme of things, so decided to go for it. I don’t think Terry was surprised, though of course he couldn’t have anticipated it when he was a PCV:

Little did I know when I boarded a giant jetliner in the blowing late December snow at Kennedy Airport in 1964, bound for a posting in East Africa with the newly formed Peace Corps’ first group of secondary school teachers, that my daughter would be heading for a posting in Ukraine 46 years later, just shy of the Peace Corps’ 50th anniversary.

Do you think you went into service with a different perspective because of stories you had heard about your dad’s service? If so, how did those stories shape your expectations and decisions?

Definitely. Because I knew that I’d be serving almost 50 years after my dad, I tried not to let his stories shape my expectations or decisions. I’d be going to a different country at a different time, so I had very few concrete expectations going in. That said, Terry’s stories helped prepare me for big cultural differences and taught me to be open-minded and flexible toward opportunities that might come along. Of course I ended up in semi-rural Ukraine rather than rural Africa, but throughout my service I often reflected on what it must have been like for my dad when he was a PCV.

Did your dad visit you while you were in Ukraine? Did he provide any insight as to how things had changed since he was a volunteer?

My mom and dad visited me during my second spring in Ukraine. They spent valuable time with me at my site, experiencing how I lived and meeting my pupils, colleagues, and friends. Terry has provided a lot of insight as to how things have changed since he was a PCV in Tanzania.

1) The Internet didn’t exist when he was a PCV; no email, no Skype. No cell phones, either — my dad had to go to the larger town/city in order to make the very occasional phone call home. Snail mail was the best option for keeping in touch and sharing experiences with those back home. Terry writes:

We received all our mail, the thin blue folded aerograms from family and friends (that took 10-14 days transit time in both directions), at our school, P.O. Box 3, Mpwapwa, Tanzania.  I believe I had only two telephone conversations with my parents during my two years there, on the only phone available – also at our school in the Headmaster’s office, telephone number: 4, Mpwapwa, Tanzania.

In contrast, many contemporary PCVs — myself included — keep blogs during their service. I Skyped with my family almost every week for the 26 months I was abroad; Skype also allowed me to keep in touch with close friends. I still wrote snail mail, but email certainly played a larger role in regular communication.

2) But despite being fortunate enough to have technology access, I had to learn an entirely new language (with a different alphabet) for my Peace Corps service. Terry didn’t have as much of a language barrier to overcome in Tanzania; Swahili and English are both official languages, and he taught in English. Many fewer people speak English in Ukraine than in Tanzania. Also, my Pre-Service Training consisted of 11.5 weeks living with a Ukrainian host family in a small village. Forty-six years earlier, Terry was trained in the US — here’s what he says about that:

Our 3-month pre-service training had been in the U.S. (common then, as overseas facilities for most of the nascent programs had not yet been established) – ironically, ours was at Columbia Teachers’ College on the upper West Side of Manhattan, a strange setting, it seemed, to prepare us for two years in Tanzania, yet we were taught well.  Except for two things.  First, that my two weeks of practice teaching at Charles Evans Hughes HS on the lower West Side, with daily fights in the hallways drawing occasional blood and mostly indifferent students were a far cry from the disciplined, if rote, eagerness of the African boys at our school, for whom it was a privilege and honor and pass to a future life of their dreams.   Indeed, the greatest class punishment I could administer (as caning was the Headmaster’s prerogative) was to ask a student to leave class for the day – because they feared that some minor topic I would cover in their absence might appear on the comprehensive O-Level Exams (the British system still held) they would take in their senior (Fourth Form = 12th grade) year far in the future.  Second, our linguistic training comprised some 3-5 hrs of Swahili per week (a paltry amount compared to any program now), justified by telling us that we really wouldn’t need Swahili because we would be too busy teaching, and our servants would be able to take care of all our local needs.   Sadly (for me, as I enjoy learning foreign languages), Columbia was right – I taught between 27 and 35 hours per week in class during most of my two years there, and our students never wanted to speak Swahili with us, as they (correctly) claimed “It is much more important for us to learn English, Sir, than for you to learn Swahili!” 

Interesting, no? I’m fortunate to have been trained in-country, teaching “real” Ukrainian pupils and intensively learning the local language. The other striking difference between Terry’s and my service is the fact that Terry and his PCV roommate, Roger, had two servants:

Though we protested about having [servants] initially, we succumbed to social pressure that it would have been snobbery to deny the employment (the Tanzanians also enjoyed working for Americans more than for other “wazungu” = foreigners), but that we had to limit their wages to $1/day so as to not out-price the market.   We also succumbed to dire necessity, due to teaching load and the competing viscissitudes (sp.?) of our life on the school compound – cooking and hot water depended on stoking up the cast iron “kuni” (wood) stove before 6 am (classes began at 8) with the chopped wood (when would we have done this?), and we were expected to wear freshly cleaned and ironed white cotton shirts and shorts for teaching each day (oh, yes, the washing and pressing?).  Our food, whether tinned or fresh from market (shopping too, and the expected bargaining in Swahili?) was cooked for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with tea ready for our short morning and afternoon teaching breaks, and served promptly and graciously by Amoni; his “shamba boy” helper Edward did the wood chopping, market shopping, other errands and such gardening as our tiny plot would yield in the arid Central District (ann. rainfall ca. 12″).

Did you catch the fact that Terry taught 27-35 hours of class per week? As far as I know, no PCV teaches that much nowadays: in Ukraine, we were told to teach 16-20 hours/week and use the rest of the time to develop extracurricular projects like English clubs, interest groups, and grants in our communities.


So there you go: a brief “then and now” snapshot of my dad’s PC experience in Tanzania (1964-1966) and my experience in Ukraine (2010-2012). It’s amazing how some things are vastly different, yet others have not changed much.

Are you a PCV/RPCV? Do you know anyone who served in the Peace Corps during its early days? How did his/her experience differ from yours?

Darien Book Aid & other updates

A few months ago, I contacted Darien Book Aid to request a shipment of 20 pounds of books for my school here in Ukraine. DBA is a non-profit, volunteer-run organization that sends books to Peace Corps Volunteers and others all over the world, free of charge. It seemed silly not to take advantage of this opportunity.

After sending in my request, all I had to do was sit and wait for the books to arrive. I received word last month that my books had been sent on 13 January, and they arrived this week. Twenty pounds of books is a lot of books! They sent me many young adult chapter books, some easy books for young readers (or beginner English-speakers, as the case may be), and two textbooks on health and teaching health in schools. I cannot wait to present all the books to my colleagues at school — it will be quite a surprise for them.

At this point I’m sort of at a loss for how to start incorporating these books into my teaching life. I’ve thought about creating a library in the English classroom, where pupils can check out books to read at home. I may make photo copies of a chapter at a time to read in English clubs. Or maybe I’ll just read them to people as a listening exercise. Any suggestions for how to use chapter books in the ESL/EFL classroom would be greatly appreciated! Please leave a comment or email me if you have ideas.

Below are some pictures of the box’s arrival. Thank you, Darien Book Aid!

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In other news, it’s still really cold here. In case you haven’t been reading any news, it’s been <9°F/-13°C here for the past two weeks. School was cancelled last week because it was too cold for the kiddies to walk to school. Teachers still make an appearance every day. This week the primary schoolers were free and we had short — 30′ — lessons with the 5th-11th forms Monday-Wednesday; no school Thursday or Friday. I’ve still been running, of course, because I’m crazy and addicted like that.

But I would really like it to warm up again soon — anything above 10°F, please! — so I can do a proper long run.

My grant implementation is under way — money’s in the bank and my director and I are going soon to buy the equipment. Thanks to everyone who donated. You can check out picture updates here.

In random “go Ukraine!” news, I just read this interesting BBC article about the origins of European coffee houses — apparently a Ukrainian in the 17th century was one of the first to brew a cup of coffee in a cafe (or something) in Vienna. The Euro-type coffee house has definitely made it’s mark in L’viv, where there are tons of cozy cafes. Read the article for more details.

In other random suggestions, read Byron’s epic/satiric poem, Don Juan. It is absolutely hilarious.

Lastly, if you haven’t heard yet, Oberlin is ranked #3 among small colleges for Peace Corps Volunteers! 24 of us are currently serving as PCVs around the world. Read this article, featuring my fellow Obie and Ukraine (R)PCV, Samantha.

I am thankful for…

  • having the opportunity to serve as a Peace Corps Volunteer.
  • serving in the incredible country of Ukraine.
  • living in the wonderful and welcoming community of Sniatyn.
  • being surrounded by great Ukrainian colleagues and friends who want to teach me and learn from me.
  • having regular Internet access so I can keep up with world news and communicate with friends and family.
  • receiving occasional packages from said friends and family. (Thanks!)
  • being healthy and fit.
  • being literate.
  • being gifted with strong language-learning skills.
  • having amazingly supportive family and friends. (I love you!)
  • having been introduced early and regularly to the joys of traveling. (Thanks, Dianne & Terry!)
  • being a teacher.
  • having great Ukrainian pupils.
  • enjoying cooking and eating.
  • having attended Oberlin College and having received an amazing education there, academic and life-wise.
  • having been a Division III two-sport student-athlete.
  • having many incredible mentors. (You know who you are. Thank you.)
  • being able to study what I love — English literature and music(ology).
  • having run a marathon for the experience. (Though I can’t say I’ll run another one…)
  • coffee.
  • having strong roots yet being allowed to fly. (Thanks again, Dianne & Terry.)
  • knowing myself pretty well and being open to further personal growth.
  • being ALIVE.
  • computers and the Internet.
  • beautiful music.
  • good food.
  • books.
  • …many other things, big and small.

What are you thankful for? Leave your answers in the comments section.

Check out this post to see what my kid & adult English clubbers are thankful for.

Here’s what I did last Thanksgiving.

For Thanksgiving this year I’ll be attending a PCV get-together/feast on Saturday. We’ll be having turkey and many other delicious dishes (though, unfortunately, no sweet potatoes or cranberries).

Musings, both literary and non

Firstly, I’d like to thank everyone who has sent me mail! I’ve received some wonderful holiday cards, and even some packages. Keep ’em coming! (Hint, hint.) If you write to me I promise to write you back. You can find my address under the “contact info” tab at the top of the page.

It seems that the world’s weather has gone insane. Huge floods in Australia and Buenos Aires, snow in 49/50 U.S. states… And here, in Ukraine, it’s been above freezing for almost a week, with warm temperatures (35F+) predicted through the weekend. Maybe the world really will end in December 2012…?

I just finished reading Edith Wharton’s The Age of Innocence. Published in 1920 (won the 1921 Pulitzer Prize) but set in 1870s New York City. A fascinating and detailed look at NYC society’s rules — spoken and unspoken — and what happens when a “foreigner” appears and disrupts or disregards some of those rules. I could say a lot more about it, but I’ll spare you my literary analysis — email me if you want to chat about it. Now I’m returning to my British literature roots — and possible first authorial love — with Charles Dickens’ Nicholas Nickleby. I’ve never read it, but I vividly remember spending a week or two in 8th grade English class watching the 5-hour+ BBC miniseries of it (thank you, Mrs. Willard!).

I’m sure some of you followed last week’s debate about the new, censored version of Twain’s Huckleberry Finn that was just published. I was incensed about it, and wrote my own response — with support from various New York Times articles — that I posted in a note on Facebook (unfortunately you have to have a Facebook account to read it, but if you don’t and you’d like me to email it to you I’d be more than happy).

Lastly, I’d like to plug a new website “committed to an earnest, expansive, and rigorous discussion of literature and literary culture.” It’s called Full Stop and it was started by none other than a group of Oberlin grads! (My good friend Amanda also happens to be the Associate Editor.) Articles, interviews, and more are appearing every day, written by even more Oberlin grads. I hope you check it out, because I sure love it.